If you’ve ever planned an at-home spa day, there’s a good chance your regimen included a sheet mask.
Sheet masks are everywhere: You can pick one up for a few bucks at the drugstore or splurge on a high-end mask from your favorite beauty retailer. But should you use them? And do they even work?
We asked dermatologists to weigh in on sheet masks. Who should (and shouldn’t) use them? What ingredients should you look for? Which masks are right for different skin types? And of course: Do sheet masks really do anything?
Here’s what the experts had to say.
Sheet mask safety and efficacy
Before you slap on a sheet mask, take a good look at the ingredients. Although masks are generally safe, New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Carmen Castilla says she’s often hesitant to recommend them to her patients.
“I have seen a significant number of contact allergies to sheet masks,” Castilla says. “Since the mask is applied to the face and left on for a significant amount of time, it has the potential to trigger a widespread contact allergy involving the whole face.”
Sheet masks with parabens and fragrances are the cause of many contact allergies Castilla sees. That said, if you love your weekly sheet mask routine and you’re not having issues, there’s no need to step away.
“I have a selection bias, since people are coming to me to address their skin issues,” Castilla says. “Sheet masks are used safely in general. It’s just that my personal professional experience gives me pause to recommend them.”
You may also want to avoid masks if you’re undergoing other types of skin treatment.
“If you recently had a procedure that made your skin sensitive, you should not self-treat by using a sheet mask without asking your doctor first,” says Dr. Suleima Arruda, a dermatologist and medical advisory board member for skincare brand WeThrivv.
Castilla and Arruda agree: Sheet masks can be effective. But think of them as a complement to your regular skincare routine, and don’t expect miracles.
Hydrating sheet masks, for example, are “an additive, not a replacement to your skin care routine,” Castilla says. “In order to lock in hydration, you need to apply a moisturizer with occlusive properties [i.e., that creates a barrier above the skin] after removing your sheet mask.”
Finding the right ingredients
The most common concern addressed by sheet masks is dry skin, Castilla says. If you’re reaching for a mask in search of moisture, look for active ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin to increase hydration. These ingredients tend to be mild enough for people with sensitive skin. “Niacinamide can also help calm sensitive skin,” Castilla adds.
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, masks with retinol or glycolic acid “can help minimize pores, balance oil production and improve acne,” says Castilla. The same active ingredients are also popular in anti-aging masks. But if you have sensitive or eczema-prone skin, avoid retinol and glycolic acid, which can be irritating.
When to mask up
How often is too often to indulge in your favorite mask? That depends on the active ingredient.
You should limit masks with active ingredients like glycolic acid or retinol to once a week, Castilla advises. Hydrating sheet masks are safe to use more often, even daily.
There’s no rule on the right time to use a mask. For her own patients, Arruda suggests masking up before bed, first thing in the morning or while relaxing in front of the TV or a book. A hydrating mask after a day in the sun can also “refresh and help bring moisture back to the skin,” she says.
Sheet mask vs. rinse-off masks
Before sheet masks became ubiquitous, you might have reached for a mask sold in a tube or a pot. But sheet masks have a few benefits over their old-school predecessors.
“The material of a sheet mask can provide occlusive properties, allowing for better penetration of active ingredients than using a face mask that comes in a tube or pot,” Castilla says. That means the ingredients in your sheet mask might be better able to penetrate into the skin than a traditional mask that you rinse off your face.
On the other hand, sheet masks have some drawbacks.
“They tend to be more expensive per use than a mask that comes in a tube or a pot,” Castilla says. “Due to their one-time use, sheet masks are also less environmentally friendly.” If you’re looking for ways to reduce your carbon footprint, opt for sheet masks that are biodegradable or reusable.
Prescription options? Pimple patches?
In the US, most sheet masks are available over the counter. Your derm isn’t likely to prescribe a sheet mask to address your skin concerns.
Other sheet mask–adjacent products, like pimple patches, can be useful in addressing skin concerns.
“Pimple patches are great to remind people not to pick,” Castilla says. “I generally don’t recommend medicated pimple patches, because they usually just lead to irritation. Hydrocolloid patches are gentle and can be used as a good reminder to keep your hands off your face.”
Sheet mask best practices
Always follow the instructions on your sheet mask. Don’t try to get more bang for your buck by leaving the mask on for extended periods of time, Castilla warns, “especially if it contains an active ingredient like glycolic acid or retinol.” That could lead to skin irritation or an unsightly rash.
A parting pro tip: Pop your mask in the fridge first for a little more oomph.
“Keeping your sheet masks cold in the fridge is not necessary, but doing so can help give them a refreshing edge by cooling down the skin immediately,” Arruda says.