Breakouts can be demoralizing, no matter at what age they happen. Pimples, blackheads, whiteheads and other forms of acne cause anxiety and self-image issues for even the most confident people. It might be tempting to pop or pick at them to (fingers crossed) return your face to its unmarred glory, but that would be a mistake.
As we explained in our article on pimple popping, it’s typically smart to leave breakouts alone, unless you’re working with a professional. Both dermatologists — medical doctors who specialize in skin care — and estheticians, who hold a license from an accredited program, can perform treatments and procedures to improve the look and feel of your skin.
One of the most popular procedures is acne extraction. If you’ve had bad experiences with acne in the past, you might’ve already tried it. If you’re not sure what it is, you’re in the right place. We asked the experts to find out what acne extraction is and how it works.
Why might you need acne extraction?
There are a million remedies out there to treat acne, some more reliable than others. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends everything from benzoyl peroxide to kill acne-causing bacteria, salicylic acid to clean out pores and reduce inflammation, and retinoids to control oily skin and unclog pores.
However, if you’ve tried other treatments to no avail, your dermatologist might recommend acne extraction. How frequently you need this procedure depends on the condition of your skin.
For a stubborn, one-time case of acne that won’t go away, a single extraction might be right for you. However, if you get acne regularly, you might also get extractions more regularly.
How does acne extraction work?
“Acne extraction is the removal of the contents of clogged pores using sterile tools,” explains Dr. Sanusi Umar, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of the Dr. U Hair and Skin Clinic in Los Angeles.
Most of the time, clogged pores are filled with dead skin or sebum, which, in proper doses, is an oily substance that moisturizes the skin. When your sebaceous glands produce too much sebum, you get acne. You might also find ingrown hairs trapped in your pores.
Dermatologists use a specific process for extracting acne. “A dermatologist may use a gentle exfoliant to remove dead skin. They may also need to give you a facial massage to loosen the gunk in your pores,” Umar says. “For especially stubborn acne, your dermatologist will apply a solvent gel with an alkaline pH. The alkalinity softens the skin and makes the extraction smoother.”
After that, your dermatologist makes an incision on your skin with a small surgical blade or needle and uses a sterilized extractor to push out the gunk clogging your pores. To calm any irritation, your derm might apply an anti-inflammatory substance at the site of the extraction.
Does the procedure carry any risks?
Like any other procedure, there are risks to acne extraction. “It is typically safe if performed by a professional,” says Umar. ”There’s a small risk of infection and scarring with whitehead extractions if not performed correctly, but this is rare.” Trained professionals won’t attempt extractions on inflamed acne.
The risks are significantly higher if you attempt acne extractions at home. “I strongly advise against performing acne extraction at home,” Umar says. “It’s particularly risky when the acne is around the eyes or on the forehead. Squeezing to get the acne out might push bacteria deeper and cause a bigger infection,” he adds. “In some extreme cases, this may even result in a brain abscess.”
Get in touch with your dermatologist to learn more about whether acne extraction is right for you.